A: The standard unit of measurement in filtration is the Micron. Some people think that one micron equals a thousandth of an inch (.001”). Actually, it’s much smaller than even a ten-thousandth of an inch (.0001”). Try .000039” —or a thousandth of a millimeter (.001 mm).
To gain a true perspective of a micron’s relative size check out the illustration.
A: Any good filtration system must also take flow into consideration to determine an optimum balance. For example, a 45-micron filter is recommended for most lubrication applications, and 35 Micron for lighter weight oils —however thicker 50, 60, 70-weight viscosity racing oils can clog it. For these ultra high-powered engines using thick oil a 75-micron filter is recommended. A 10-micron filter should only be used with methanol or gasoline.
A: The stainless steel mesh elements can be cleaned with solvent, aerosol brake/carb cleaner or dishwashing soap and water. Scrub the outside with soap and a nylon brush and rinse. If compressed air is available, blow from the inside out to remove any particulate from the outside of the element, or simply let it air dry before reinstalling.
A: With proper maintenance your System 1 Filter element will give you many, many years of great service.
A: No! Never leave a fuel system (pump, filter, lines, etc.) standing with methanol from race to race. A “glaze” can build up and eventually clog the filter. The filter should be clean and dry between races.
A: Yes, race gas and diesel fuel can remain in the system but nitromethane should be drained because it’s cut with methanol to get the desired percentage.
A: At the conclusion of the race drain the fuel and blow air through the lines to clean them out. Then pour Marvel Mystery Oil (which is a rust inhibitor and also prevents varnish/gum build-up) into the lines and blow them clean. Also put MMO into the pump, shut-off and circulate it by rotating the engine. Do it in two steps, “backward” to remove the fuel residue and “forward” to coat the internal components for protection —pouring in some MMO each time.
A: System 1 recommends using Buna (black color) O-rings for methanol (alcohol) applications and Viton (brown color) for gasoline, nitro or diesel fuel.
A: With normal usage the O-rings should last a couple of years. It’s also a good idea to have a spare O-ring kit for your tool box. When replacing O-rings use a light coat of oil on them for ease of spinning the filter back on. Always oil the threads on the inspection cap before installing the cap back onto the housing.
A: On those applications where the System 1 Filter is attached to a System 1 Remote mount, or Chevy Block Adapter with a 1” -12 nipple, use the optional jam nut, P/N 216-0112 to prevent the filter housing from rotating when you loosen the cap. This eliminates the chance of accidentally loosening the entire filter assembly from the block adapter or Remote Mount. This speeds up servicing the filter as well.
A: Do not leaving Methanol in your fuel filters as it could glaze over and collapse the element.
A: Yes. On inline filters the “IN” fitting has a spring attached to it that is designed to seat in the dimpled end of the element and push it forward to seal. A simple tip is to remove the fitting marked “OUT” you will see the open end of the element, which essentially looks like a big “O.”
Remember “O” is for Outlet !
A: Yes. System 1 offers a variety of inlet and outlet fittings so it’s easy to go from, say an AN-8 up to an AN-10. You must specify inlet or outlet.
A: While horizontal mounting is preferred, you can mount the filter vertically —but only if the INLET side is facing DOWN. That’s because if the outlet is facing down contaminants can run down into the clean return line when the filter element is removed.
A: NO! With the filter mounted upside-down all the particulate will settle to the bottom and when element is removed for inspection or cleaning, the accumulated particulate will run down the clean return line back to the motor. The preferred mounting for any spin-on filter is upright with cap facing down. It can be horizontally mounted.
A: No. Because our System 1 Filter elements are 6-times less restrictive than paper filters, it could bleed through to the clean side of the element and siphon the oil to the crankcase through the mounting nipple. This makes a drain-back valve ineffective.
A: No. By Gen 1 we mean the original small block Chevy. They use filters with the prefix 209. LS motors, including the original LS1, employ 210 series filters that come with multiple threaded adapters to fit most LS engines.
A: Yes, when you purchased your filter it came with two threaded adapters, a ¾-16 for the Ford and Chrysler and 13/16-16 for the Chevrolet —plus an extra O-ring that didn’t mate to your Ford Block. You can use the 13/16-16 insert and outer O-ring at the mounting surface to mate to the Chevy block. Remove the inner O-ring you used for the Ford as it no longer needed.
